Advice › Installation guide
How to fit sound deadening and insulation
A step-by-step guide to fitting our self-adhesive materials: sound deadening mats first, then ST-Mat or PPE ECO foam, then acoustic felt or foam, then anti-squeak tape as you refit the trim.
What you need
- Panel thinners or an alcohol-based cleanerNot white spirit: it leaves an oily film.
- GlovesThe foil edges of sound deadening mats are sharp.
- Sharp knife or scissors, and a cutting boardCut mats, rolls, felt and foam to shape on a board.
- VibroFiltr metal rollerBonds mats fully to the metal, with no air pockets.
- Hairdryer (or heat gun on low)Gently warms the mats if it’s below +16 to +18 °C.
- Tape measureMeasure each area to work out how much you need.
Not sure which materials to buy? See which product for which job.
1Prepare the surface (all products)
- Remove the trim panels (door cards, linings, carpets) to reach the bare metal.
- Clean bare metal thoroughly: remove all dust and grease with panel thinners or an alcohol-based cleaner, and let it dry. Don’t use white spirit or similar products that leave an oily residue. Inside doors there is often a layer of wax: clean that off too. On plastic trim, use isopropyl alcohol (test a hidden spot first): strong thinners can damage some plastics.
- Let the surface dry, then measure and plan each piece.
Don’t cover: door drain holes, window glass and regulator paths, lock rods and handles, airbag modules and yellow SRS connectors, seat-belt mechanisms, wiring plugs, or bolts you may need later. Mats won’t stick to underseal, bed-liner or rust. Don’t disconnect anything related to airbags unless you know the procedure.
2Fit the sound deadening mats (layer 1)
Careful: the foil edges are sharp and can cause cuts. Wear gloves.
- Work at +16 to +18 °C or warmer. Keep the mats indoors until you use them, and warm the van or garage. If it’s still cold, warm the mat and panel gently with a hairdryer. Don’t overheat the butyl, and keep any heat away from plastic trim, wiring and foam.
- Cut the mat to shape. With the 2mm roll, measure and cut lengths on a board.
- Peel off the backing (on long pieces, a little at a time) and press the mat onto the bare metal.
- Roll it down firmly with a metal roller, from the centre out, until there are no air bubbles. Keep rolling until the embossed pattern flattens out: that shows the mat is fully bonded. Use firm, even pressure; you don’t need to force it or tear the foil.
- Cover at least 50% of each panel, starting in the centre of the largest flat areas. Knock-test as you go: when the panel sounds dull instead of hollow, it’s done. Small gaps between pieces are fine; you can butt them up or overlap slightly.
3Fit ST-Mat or PPE ECO foam (layer 2)
ST-Mat
One chance: ST-Mat is very sticky. Once it’s on, it can’t be removed without damaging it.
- Clean the surface with panel thinners or an alcohol-based cleaner. Don’t use white spirit.
- Cut the exact shape first.
- Peel back one corner of the backing and stick that corner down.
- Slowly peel away the rest of the backing while pressing the foam on.
Press ST-Mat down over its whole area, with no air pockets, and butt each piece tightly against the last: air gaps behind closed-cell foam can collect condensation in a van. On roofs and other overhead panels, check the edges after the first hot day and re-press any that lift.
Under a plywood floor without battens, use only 3mm ST-Mat: it’s a soft foam, and thicker layers compress over time so the ply flexes. See the van floor project.
PPE ECO closed-cell foam
- Clean and degrease the surface.
- Cut the sheet to size. PPE works best on flat surfaces.
- Peel off the backing and press it firmly into place.
Products: ST-Mat (3 to 25mm) · 4mm PPE ECO · 8mm PPE ECO · 8mm PPE ECO with foil
4Fit acoustic felt or foam (layer 3)
- Check the area stays dry: felt and acoustic foam are for dry areas only.
- Clean the surface of dust and grease.
- Cut to shape with a sharp knife (or scissors for felt).
- Peel off the backing and press firmly into place. With felt, add more layers to fill deeper gaps.
- Don’t cram it: felt and acoustic foam absorb best when they’re not squashed flat. Fill the space, but let the trim close without force, and keep it clear of moving parts.
Products: 8mm felt · 12mm felt · Autoshim acoustic foam
5Stop rattles and refit the trim
- Clean the contact areas on the plastic parts.
- Cut the anti-squeak tape to length, peel off the backing and press it firmly on: Madelin tape (1mm) for tight joints and trim clips, Black Layer tape (5mm) between trim and the body.
- On cars, refit the plastic water shield behind the door card (re-seal it with butyl tape if needed), or cover the access holes with mat. Check the window winds fully up and down, the locks work and the drain holes are clear before you clip the trim back on.
- Refit the metal partitions and trim panels.
Worked example: soundproofing a van door
How InShop did a van door, in order (from our door frame and door card projects).
- Remove the plastic door card.
- Remove the metal partition and raise the window to reach the back of the door. Clean off any wax with thinners or an alcohol-based cleaner.
- Fit 1.5mm sound deadening mat to the inside of the door and roll it down.
- Add 6mm ST-Mat over it for sound and thermal insulation. If you have the space, a thicker mat gives a better result.
- Cover the metal partition with 1.5mm mat too, and refit it. (There was no room for ST-Mat here.)
- Before refitting, check the window winds fully up and down and that the drain holes at the bottom of the door are clear.
- On the plastic door card itself: clean it with isopropyl alcohol, cover most of the flat surfaces with 1.5mm mat, then fit 12mm acoustic felt over the whole surface. Refit the door card.
Fitting FAQ
What should I clean the metal with?
Panel thinners or an alcohol-based cleaner. Don’t use white spirit or anything similar: it leaves an oily film and the adhesive won’t bond properly. If the panel has a layer of wax (common inside doors), clean it off thoroughly with thinners or an alcohol-based cleaner first. On plastic trim, use isopropyl alcohol instead, and test a hidden spot first.
Can I peel ST-Mat off and reposition it?
No. The adhesive is very strong and ST-Mat can’t be removed without damaging it. Cut the exact shape first, stick down one corner, then slowly peel away the rest of the backing while you press the foam on.
Do I really need a roller for sound deadening mats?
Yes. Pressing by hand leaves air pockets that reduce damping. A metal roller presses the mat fully onto the panel, into corners and over ribs. On VibroFiltr mats the embossed pattern flattens out once the mat is fully bonded, so you can see which areas still need rolling. Use firm, even pressure; you don’t need to force it.
It’s cold in my garage. Can I still fit the mats?
Work at a temperature of at least +16 to +18 °C: keep the mats indoors and warm the space first. If it’s still cold, warm the mat and panel gently with a hairdryer so the mat is easier to fit. Don’t overheat it. The mats don’t need heating at normal room temperature.
Can I stack acoustic felt?
Yes. You can add several layers of 12mm acoustic felt to fill deeper gaps and crevices. Keep it to dry areas, and don’t squash it flat: it absorbs best when it isn’t compressed.
How do I know where to put the mats?
Use the knock test. Tap each bare panel: where it rings or sounds hollow, add a mat, starting in the centre of the largest flat area. Tap again; when it sounds dull, move on. Small, curved or ribbed areas are already stiff and rarely need much.
Should the pieces overlap?
Mats can be butted together or overlap slightly; small gaps don’t matter. Closed-cell foam (ST-Mat, PPE ECO) is different: butt every piece tightly, with no air gaps behind or between pieces, so moisture can’t condense on the metal.
Next: see the materials and steps we used on real vans and cars.
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